SS’24 South Asian Designers Go Global: Fashion Week Recap
A Spotlight on South Asian Creativity and Innovation on the Global Runway
While South Asian countries have a legacy of handwork that stretches back millennia and is heavily utilized by labels from the West, few of our own designers have truly been able to break into the overseas market. However, this seems to be changing as the fashion spotlight is beginning to settle on South Asian nations.
The Spring/Summer 2024 season (SS'24) was dedicated to the exploration of South Asian heritage through fashion. The memo we received was to incorporate sequins, beads, and go louder with embellishments (but make it sheer), as if a 70’s or 80’s themed disco night were to be hosted by Ashish, Naeem, Falguni Shane, and we went head over heels for Anaar! If it’s embellished, we're calling for more bombers, blazers, and mini dresses, particularly from the Goyal collection to complement them. This time, our designers took inspiration from traditional South Asian silhouettes like dhoti pants, salwars, three-piece lehenga sets, and saris. Our designers have excelled at modifying these traditional silhouettes to entice a wider audience without losing sight of their heritage.
While we witnessed a tapestry of designs at London and New York Fashion Weeks, there was a notable absence in Milan. However, as we head to Paris, AFEW’s debut spoke for all! You're looking at a basic T-shirt, but couture designer Rahul Mishra finishes it with tonal oversized floral embroidery (the color, you ask? Neon!!). Everyday Luxury Wear, as the designer calls it.
Let’s take a look at some of this season’s Fashion Week highlights featuring South Asian designers!
ASHISH GUPTA
Combining Indian craftsmanship with London street style, the label "Ashish" is celebrated for its sequined and embellished designs, embracing individuality and diversity. During his much-awaited return to LFW, Gupta drew inspiration from disco queen Asha Puthli and Studio 54. A diverse range of models, embodying a modern-day "Stepford Wives" remake, walked past a swan-headboard bed, where a handsome mustached man occasionally tossed and turned, allowing showgoers to glimpse his glinting scanty sleepwear, something we can’t even dream of witnessing on a runway. The collection celebrated individuality with vibrant psychedelic designs and created a dreamy atmosphere.
SUPRIYA LELE
Incorporating her British and Indian roots, Lele effortlessly embodies confident femininity in her designs, characterized by delicate draping techniques. With admirers ranging from Bella Hadid to Dua Lipa, she made a remarkable comeback to the runway after a two-year break. Raised in the UK by Indian immigrant parents, Lele's creations delve into themes of cultural identity and belonging. Her collections are defined by bold, draped silhouettes and unexpected fabric combinations, establishing a truly unique and compelling aesthetic.
PRABAL GURUNG
Prabal Gurung, born in Singapore and raised in Nepal, refined his design skills at NIFT in Delhi before relocating to Parson, NYC in 1998. His emphasis on quality and innovation has positioned him as a key figure in American fashion, dressing influential women such as First Lady Michelle Obama and the Duchess of Cambridge. Despite an unexpected rain shower during the SS '24 showcase, his elegant craftsmanship, vibrant colors, and use of traditional fabrics made the journey to Roosevelt Island truly worthwhile.
HARRI
Harri KS, also known as Harikrishnan Keezhathil Surendra Pillai, is a renowned fashion designer hailing from Kerala, India. His creations are characterized by a unique interplay of dimensions and form. During the first day of London Fashion Week, his collection was showcased alongside performative stunts, demonstrating not only how to confidently strut in his latex uniform but also how to fully embrace and exude confidence.
PRIYA AHLUWALIA
Growing up in the diverse neighborhood of Southall, West London, with a Nigerian mother and Indian father, her upbringing significantly shapes her work. In 2018, she established Ahluwalia, a brand that seamlessly uses deadstock and blends vintage charm with contemporary styles, emphasizing her dedication to both environmental awareness and multicultural celebration. In Ahluwalia's SS 24 collection, titled "Acknowledgements," she delves into the history books encompassing music, film, art, fashion, and social justice.
ARCHANA KOCHHAR
Hailing from Mumbai, Archanna emerges as an artist whose canvas is fabric, and paints stories with experimental designs and unconventional hues. Her collection 'Anant' is a collaboration with the Government of Maharashtra, divided into 3 segments. In her artistic odyssey, Archanna Kochhkar pays homage to three generations, creating a legacy that harmonizes the essence of the past, the vibrancy of the present, and the aspirations of the future. Collaborating with tribal women from Jharkhand, she also pioneered 'Ahimsa' silk, a testament to her dedication where aesthetics harmonize with ethical choices. The runway also graced with the presence of Miss World 1997, Diana Hayden, as the showstopper.
FALGUNI SHANE PEACOCK
In 2004, at India Fashion Week, the duo unveiled their debut collection. Over the past two decades, they consistently elevated Indian fashion globally. Their creations often feature a mix of traditional Indian motifs and modern silhouettes, catering to the tastes of the modern, fashion-forward audience. FSP made a highly anticipated comeback, blending intricate couture-level handwork from India with effortless American-style sportswear.
RP NEWYORK
Roopa Pemmaraju's journey from Bengaluru, India, to Australia and later New York, shaped her unique style. Inspired by the juxtaposition of varied geometric and floral designs, she crafted playful luxury, weaving stories of heritage and nature. Her NYC-designed collections come to life in India, handcrafted by skilled artisans using silks and breathable cotton, echoing vibrant gardens. Beyond beauty, the brand prioritizes sustainability, using natural fibers and recycled materials. Each design is a wearable poem, honoring artisans and the planet through intentional slow fashion choices and fair pay.
ANAAR
Anaar, India's pioneering footwear brand, made history at NYFW. Tanushri Biyani, the visionary behind Anaar, seamlessly marries tradition with modernity, creating a cultural milestone. Anaar is particularly known for its handcrafted sneakers that combine comfort with contemporary Indian tweaks, making them uniquely fashionable, Expect intricate detailing, vibrant colors, and high-quality materials.
NAEEM KHAN
Born in Mumbai, grandson of Indian textile manufacturers he grew around the magic of textile and craft. His designs are often inspired by his Indian heritage, featuring luxurious fabrics, exquisite embroidery, and attention to detail. In the intimate setting of his atelier, Naeem Khan presented 'To India My Love,' a runway showcase that embodied his signature fusion of East-meets-West glam. The collection featured striking golden metallics, sequined marigold leopard prints, and elegantly draped luxe sheers, reminiscent of traditional Indian lehenga couture silhouettes. This heartfelt homage beautifully combined intricate designs with a touch of glamour.
KANIKA GOYAL
Kanika Goyal, hailing from Chandigarh, swiftly gained recognition for her edgy, urban designs characterized by bold prints, experimental silhouettes, and diverse fabric combinations. Rooted in quality craftsmanship and refined tailoring, the Label embraces provocative minimalism. Inspired by the principle of paradox, Kanika consistently weaves her contrasting ideals into garments, creating pieces that tell a unique and compelling story.
AFEW RAHUL MISHRA
The label encapsulates Rahul Mishra's vision of effortless, accessible luxury crafted for the contemporary woman's wardrobe. AFEW's exciting journey knows no borders, harnessing the finest of Indian design and craftsmanship for the global consumer. Mishra showcased the looks on a diverse ensemble, including a troupe of dancers who mesmerized the audience with a series of spontaneous moves. Nearly every piece showcased a form of embellishment, from the silver sequins to flowers intricately embroidered.
In a remarkable season that showcased a diverse array of South Asian designers on the global fashion stage, it's clear that the influence of their creative vision is stronger than ever. From embracing cultural heritage to pushing the boundaries of design, these designers have left an indelible mark. As South Asian designers continue to shine brightly on international runways, they not only bring fashion to life but also weave a tapestry of cultural diversity and innovation. Their presence is a testament to the global fashion industry's evolution towards inclusivity, and we eagerly anticipate what they have in store for future seasons.